beauty cosmopolite

Turmeric: the Golden Beauty Spice

 

Hi all -- hope you had a lovely Easter weekend!

Further to my last post, lest you think I spent all my time away blissfully spa-ing, I was, in fact, also getting down and dirty with my beauty research -- literally. I spent a lot of time on the beautiful island of Bali, which is an amazing place for herbal study, as Indonesia is home to an estimated 30,000 species of tropical plants out of the 40,000 in the world! Many of these incredible plants are used for specific beauty and health purposes.

So -- does it make me a geek to admit that I was thrilled when I came face to face with a turmeric plant? Turmeric is one of my favourite beauty-and-health spices, something I've used regularly for years! Even though turmeric (which is related to ginger) isn't native to my part of the world, I'm lucky to have access to imported turmeric root. However, even if you can't get the actual turmeric root where you live, these days you can easily find ground, dried turmeric spice at any high-end health food store. It's not as potent as fresh turmeric, obviously, but it still has beneficial properties -- just be sure to go for the organic, non-irradiated spice (as with any dried spice you purchase).

Turmeric has been used for thousands of years in Asia; for example, Ayurvedic medicine and Indonesian "Jamu" holistic herbal medicine (more on Jamu in a later post) use it extensively for skin beauty and internal health. But no matter where you live, you've probably heard a lot about turmeric, as more and more potent health benefits are being scientifically recognized in the West. Here are just some of the benefits turmeric is known for.

• The curcumin that gives turmeric its gorgeous deep-golden-yellow colour, is an antioxidant, anticancer, anti-inflammatory polyphenol.
• The antioxidants in turmeric (perhaps stronger than vitamins E and C) help boost immunity and provide other anti-aging effects. (And from an anti-aging point of view, turmeric works at a cellular level, "capturing" free radicals that cause damage.)
• The powerful anti-inflammatory properties make turmeric an excellent wrinkle-and-sag fighter (amongst other things)!
• The curcuminoids in turmeric can aid in blood, liver and detoxification functions, which helps to maintain and promote the suppleness and elasticity of skin.
• Turmeric can help improve digestion, which is critical for skin health.
• Studies are showing that turmeric appears to have superior results to many pharmaceuticals in helping to ease or prevent certain chronic diseases ranging from arthritis to Alzheimer's to cancer -- with no ill side-effects.
• Studies are also showing that people who have liberal amounts of turmeric in their diets have lower rates of breast, prostate, lung and colon cancers.
• Studies have shown that elderly villagers in India, who include turmeric with almost every meal, have the lowest incidences of Alzheimer's in the world!

Traditionally, turmeric is used as a cooking spice -- you'll find it in Indian curries (and it's what gives American mustard its bright yellow colour). In Bali, it seemed that it was incorporated into almost every dish (even the bread buns at our hotel were golden yellow with the addition of turmeric). At home, I'll throw it into drinks and various dishes; it has a distinctive, pungent flavour that I personally like. If you haven't already, I encourage you to try experimenting with this amazing spice!* (And in my next post, I'll give you a beauty-drink recipe that you can try!)

*Important note: If you are pregnant, have gallstones, or bile duct issues, please check with your doctor before using turmeric. If you experience any stomach upset or other symptoms (this is rare, but it can happen), stop using turmeric and consult your doctor. As always, listen to your body -- not everything is right for everyone!

Product Review: Weleda Everon Lip Balm

 

Hi all! Hope you're keeping your skin protected and moisturized over these dry winter months -- and that includes your lips. Lips do not contain oil glands, so they're very prone to dryness and chapping. I've experimented with many different lip balms over the years, the latest being Weleda's Everon Lip Balm. My verdict? It's a stand-out product.

My testing conditions have been ideal: I'm currently in a really dry climate -- and I'm seeing lots of cracked, chapped lips around here. Normally, I'd be dealing with that painful, unpretty problem as well. But with regular, gentle exfoliation, followed by a quick slick of Weleda's lip balm, my lips feel soft and supple (and that's according to the husband-test!)

I've mentioned Weleda before -- I'm a fan of their all-natural toothpaste. (Their toothpaste, by the way, does not contain sodium lauryl sulfate, a ubiquitous ingredient found in conventional toothpastes that is a known lip irritant. If you're suffering from constant chapped lips, check your toothpaste ingredients for this culprit).

The Weleda Everon lip balm is all-natural, which is critical in any lip balm you choose to use, considering that it's on your mouth and you'll end up "eating" some. Ingredients include jojoba oil, beeswax and shea butter. Perhaps a "star" ingredient is the rose wax, which has natural antiseptic properties, and helps prevent and heal cracks.

The balm goes on with a smooth, comfortable, almost "matte" feel -- that is, there's no goopy-ness. It's lip-soothing and moisturizing qualities last -- I don't feel the need to re-apply frequently as I have with other balms. In fact, that's one of my favourite things about this balm: it hasn't caused that lip-balm-dependency problem. It's great on its own or under lipstick or gloss.

Bonus: the price is absolutely reasonable -- depending on where you are, it's around the five-dollar range. I've tried lip balms that have been five times the price, and this product is at least as good, if not better! I'll be buying it again -- although I won't have to for a while, as there's plenty left despite the fact that I've been using it for a couple of months. A healthy beauty-bargain that actually works -- that's something to smile about!

Saving Face in a Dry Environment

 

Greetings, everyone! Apologies for the "silence" over the last little while; I've been on the road! I left my usual relatively humid climate and have now arrived to face a very dry one. Each has its own beauty challenges: humidity = good for skin, bad for hair (frizz!); dryness = good for hair, bad for skin. There is no Beauty Utopia.

So, one of the first things I did upon arrival was to plug in our humidifier. I resisted getting one for years, because, being somewhat of a minimalist, I like to limit the gadgets we have around. However, dry skin and challenges breathing comfortably finally made me cave in; and am I ever glad I did. I now consider a humidifier an absolute must in a dry climate. But even if you're in a relatively humid climate, indoor heating during these colder months can take a real toll on your skin, literally sucking the moisture and vitality right out of it. The lack of moisture can leave your skin feeling tight, rough, itchy... and can even result in cracks on delicate areas like your hands -- ouch. Other signs that your environment might be too dry include dry, itchy eyes, chronically chapped lips, dry or congested sinuses, and bleeding noses. If you're using indoor heating at home or at work and are experiencing some or all of these symptoms, I encourage you to consider a humidifier.

Here's the humidifier we use, which we chose because it has the ultraviolet light feature that reportedly kills water-bred germs, but there are tons of them out there with varying features and price points. The most important thing is to monitor the humidity levels and keep your humidifier scrupulously clean, according to directions, to avoid bacteria and mold.

My humidifier has definitely helped me save face. The only drawback? The smoother hair I usually experience in a dry climate has once again gone -- yes, you guessed it -- frizzy. But choosing between flaky skin or frizzy hair? No contest.

Okay -- next: more tips on dealing with dry winter skin. In the meantime, enjoy your day wherever you are in the world!

  

Post-Sun Soother

Ouch... Prevention is key when it comes to avoiding skin-damaging sunburns, but here's something to help sooth and repair if the damage has been done...

It's not quite September, but I can already feel fall in the air...and so could a friend of mine who figured the cooler temps meant she was safe to go out, sans sunscreen, for an unexpected spin on a boat. The spin turned into an all-afternoon affair, and she returned with a nasty sunburn on her face which included a blistery patch on each side of her nose (likely from the sun reflecting off the metallic edges of her sunglasses).

I figured I didn't need to add to her pain by reminding her, after the fact, that UV rays are intensified when they reflect off the water... Instead, I asked if she had aloe vera gel.

"Yes!" she exclaimed, and produced a bottle, labeled "pure aloe", that an old boyfriend had left lying around. Hm. The bright green gunk was as toxic as her old relationship -- an unsavory cocktail of artificial colour, fragrance and preservatives -- exactly what you don't want to put on your skin, especially when it's extra-vulnerable from sun damage.

"Toss that out immediately," I commanded (sometimes, I can be a tad bossy) -- "I'll make you something." (I'm also a good friend).

"Don't go to any trouble," she protested (in pain).

Actually, it was no trouble, because I always have on hand the exact ingredients I needed to whip up a post-sun skin-soothing-and-healing concoction:

• Fresh aloe vera gel from my medicinal aloe plant. The ancient Egyptians discovered the medicinal uses of aloe vera and it was one of Cleopatra's favourite beauty ingredients; thousands of years later, it's one of mine. For this purpose, it rehydrates damaged skin, and its anti-inflammatory action helps soothe and heal.
• Lavender essential oil. Its antiseptic and natural antibiotic properties help accelerate the healing process. It stimulates the immune system as well as the cells of a damaged area for faster regeneration and repair. 
• Green tea. As I've mentioned, this deserves a post all its own, but for now suffice to say that several studies have shown that topical applications of green tea can reduce sun damage and inflammation.

All you need to do is simply cut one stalk off the aloe plant, trim off one edge to peel it open and scoop out the wonderful gel inside. (If you only have the aloe plant or store-bought aloe-gel and nothing else, simply press the gel directly on your sunburn). Put the gel into a cup or small bowl (never plastic, please). Then add a splash of green tea, just enough to give you a soupy mix that's not too watery. (Apologies for the lack of scientific measurements, but it all depends on how much aloe gel you're starting with). Then, add a couple of drops of lavender essential oil -- a little goes a long way. Mix well (the mixture will be globby) and apply with your fingers to the affected areas. Store the remainder in the fridge, and apply as needed.

My friend felt immediate relief from her first application, and within hours saw her red, inflamed face calm down. By the next day, the puffy bumps on each side of her nose had disappeared, and the day after that her skin looked almost back to normal. She was thrilled. The only thing she didn't like was the "slimy" texture from the aloe gel. I always prefer potent aloe right from the plant, but if you're adverse to the texture, you can purchase pure aloe juice from your health food store and make the following post-sun-soother (to also be stored in the fridge) which is great when you need to treat large areas of your body. In a spray bottle, combine:

• 1 cup aloe juice
• half a cup green tea
• 20 drops lavender essential oil

Shake well and spray over sun-damaged areas. Relief.

[For a serious burn, please seek medical attention].

A Smooth (Foot) Finish

Another one of Canada's natural-beauty-resources...

After reading my last post on dealing with dry heels, a friend told me a story about recently wearing a new pair of strappy sandals to work, only to have a colleague (brazenly) remark on her "callused, flaky heels". 

"I knew they weren't good," she confided to me indignantly, "but I didn't have time to go for a pedicure -- and I wanted to wear my new shoes!"

I had a similar experience in the past (except at least my "helpful informer" was my cousin, not a work colleague) -- and took it as a signal that I needed to be more diligent about home maintenance in-between pedicure appointments. Moisturizing is critical of course, but you have to exfoliate any significant callus build-up first so that the moisture can penetrate more easily. I tried some pumice stones, which weren't that great (some just scraped at the heels, leaving the skin roughened, which actually makes your feet vulnerable to more callus build-up; others crumbled in the shower, leaving gritty bits everywhere). My pediwand experience wasn't much better.

I decided to give the pumice stone another try when I saw an interesting one at a Rocky Mountain Soap Company retail store. Continuing along the 'Canada's-natural-beauty-resources' theme, their pumice stones come from a mountain near Whistler, British Columbia, where, apparently, over 2300 years ago, there was a massive volcanic eruption that left in its wake deposits of high quality pumice rock.

This stone fits nicely into my hand (as opposed to those block-shaped pumice stones); doesn't crumble; and best of all, strikes that perfect balance between being hard-working and yet gentle enough to buff my heels to a smooth finish. Pumicing a few times a week in the shower, followed by moisturizer, makes a big difference, and can help prolong the results of a professional pedicure (a very good thing in this economy).

If you're dealing with significant callusing, as a couple of readers mentioned to me, you may want to add this foot soak to your home-maintenance program -- it helps to soften hard, callused skin, making it much easier to pumice away. This is what you do:

Fill a foot tub with warm water, and add about half a cup of baking soda and half a cup of sea salt; swirl around with your feet to dissolve. Soak your feet for at least 15 minutes (if you're like my friend who says she has no time for pedicure appointments or to sit there with feet-in-tub, think about using this time to read, email, meditate and deep-breath, file your fingernails, open your mail, or whatever...). Take out one foot and gently buff with a real pumice stone (forget the synthetic ones); then do the other foot. Dry your feet well, and follow with a good moisturizing treatment, like the Foot Butter, olive oil, or coconut oil. Voila -- soft, smooth feet that will not invite unwanted comments!

Heel-ing Power

If dry heels are driving you to the, er, edge, you may want to try Rocky Mountain Soap Company's Foot Butter...   Shoes: Dries Van Noten  Photo: jakandjil.com

For years, my pedicurist Simon lectured me about moisturizing my feet. 

"But I doooo!" I'd protest.

He didn't believe me. And who could blame him? I'd show up with heels the texture of sandpaper, as opposed to the baby soft ones I had left with after I saw him last. Being the green-girl that I am, I had tried every natural-ingredient-based lotion, cream and oil to no avail. Then I discovered one of Canada's natural resources -- the Rocky Mountain Soap Company's Foot Butter. Oh, Canada, thank you -- finally, truth in advertising -- a product that actually does what it says it will do. Rub the Foot Butter on your exfoliated feet at night, slip on some cotton socks, and voila -- by morning, soft heels and toes.

My husband noticed a difference immediately. I suggested it to my friend S. who had tried everything for her own heels, including heavy-duty conventional creams that made big promises but didn't deliver. She tried the Foot Butter before going to bed, and called me the next morning, amazed and grateful. But of course, the big test would be Simon's response. I showed up at my next appointment after faithfully using the Foot Butter for a few weeks, and presented my feet for his expert inspection.

"At last," Simon said. "You've finally listened to me about moisturizing your feet!"

Honey Glow

Cleopatra used honey in her baths to achieve soft, glowy skin...

After reading my post on the honey mask, an acquaintance told me about some skin care products she had recently purchased containing honey, including a facial mask and moisturizer. "They smell divine, work great, and no sticky drips. See? New technology, versus old technology."

I suppose you could say using natural honey is "old technology". I mean, thousands of years ago, Cleopatra used it regularly in her milk and honey baths to soften her skin. Madame du Barry, the stunning courtesan and notorious mistress of Louis XV, gave herself honey facial masks. And honey is a traditional Chinese beauty secret. For centuries, women all over the world have been using honey for beautification -- basically because it works.

Not that I have anything against new technology. It's just that when honey has been "cosmeticized" into a product, it has likely lost many of the properties found in raw honey that nourish, feed, protect, and heal the skin.

Because I just can't seem to leave well enough alone when it comes to beauty topics, I felt compelled to share this information with said acquaintance. I suggested that if she wanted to use honey as part of her moisturizing routine, she could try using raw honey straight on her face. Her expression and reply told me what she thought of my suggestion.

"It'd be sticky and gross!"

Actually, it's not. This is what you do. After washing your face and while it is still wet, put a tiny drop or two of honey on wet fingertips and gently massage it into your skin. I know -- you'd think you'd have bees buzzing around your face after this treatment, but the honey will meld beautifully into your skin (if you feel any stickiness, you've used too much). The honey will help stimulate collagen production, ward off breakouts, and increase your glow-factor. And because it is a fantastic humectant, it will help your skin to better attract and retain moisture. Smooth your moisturizer on over the honey, and you're good to go.

There are so many uses for honey; here are just a few more: 

• Dab some on a pimple -- its antimicrobial qualities will help heal the pimple and gently dry it out. (Much gentler and safer than the common toothpaste-on-a-pimple solution).

• Try honey to soothe skin that has been irritated after hair removal -- use a tiny amount on damp skin before applying your moisturizer. Its anti-irritant properties will help calm the area.

• Use honey to gently exfoliate, heal, soften and moisturize dry, chapped lips.

• To soften your skin in the bath, add about a 1/4 cup of honey to your bath water.

There you go -- straight-out-of-the-jar honey solutions that are just as easy as straight-out-of-the-store-bought-tube -- and likely, so much more beneficial. In the future, I'll share various recipes using honey, but for now, I hope you like these sweet and simple suggestions. Let me know how it goes!

Sweet

Use raw honey for a glow-giving facial mask.

My friend D. called me last week and said of friend of hers -- whom I've never met -- was back in the dating game and going on her first one in some time. The associated anxiety had left said woman feeling that her skin just wasn't looking its glowy best. 

"Any quick fix she can do for her skin before she goes out tonight?" asked D. "You know -- a mask or something to perk things up?" 

"Well...what kind of skin does she have? Different masks work for different types," I replied. 

"I don't know, it just looks normal to me. Don't you have an easy, one-mask-fits-all suggestion?"

Actually, I do -- a honey mask. It's one of my favourites, and it's simple, easy and works for basically every skin type -- oily, dry, combo, sensitive, damaged, mature, sunburned -- you name it. (The only people who need to avoid it are those with a bee-allergy). Honey -- rich in vitamins, amino acids, glucose, and other excellent skin-nourishers -- is super hydrating, moisturizing and softening. It's safe and gentle enough to use on your skin everyday if you wanted to. It can be used to treat a variety of skin conditions -- everything from acne to eczema. And it has fantastic health benefits when taken internally (but that's another post).

Here's what you do. First, use raw honey rather than just any standard honey from the supermarket, which typically has undergone a heat and filtration process that kills off many of the skin and health-benefiting properties. I like manuka honey, which is produced only in New Zealand, and is recognized in the medical community for its exceptional antibacterial, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

All you need is about one tablespoon of honey. Start with a clean, make-up-free face. Pull your hair back, as honey will run, especially as it warms up on your skin. Gently smooth on a thin layer of honey over your entire face (even around the eyes) and on your neck and decollete. Leave it on for at least 15 minutes. If you can, lie down and enjoy the warm feeling as it starts penetrating the skin. (For D.'s friend, I recommended the relaxing-lie-down as a vital component to her honey-mask -- anxiety is never good for the skin and never helps in making that first-date-impression).

Then, use your fingers to lightly tap your skin for a few minutes to increase circulation. Rinse off using warm water and a soft cloth. Voila -- glowy, soft skin.

And -- here's the update on D.'s friend. She did try the honey mask before her date and loved the results. Maybe her date did too, as they have a second one lined up. Sweet.

Scents and Sensibilities

It's bacteria, not sweat, that raises the "stink-factor"...

The other weekend, some friends and I got together for our first big 'workout-climb' of the season -- nearly two miles straight up a mountain. Thank goodness we didn't have to make the trek back down -- we piled into a gondola, packed in like sardines with all the other sweaty climbers. Hm. Stinky.

No wonder our conversation afterward turned to, what else -- B.O. control. D. wanted to know what brand of antiperspirant the rest of us used. And she seemed more than a little disgusted when we all three replied that we didn't use antiperspirant.

"Really? Don't you get all clammy?"

It's true that antiperspirants block the pores in your sweat glands to stop you from perspiring -- that's actually one of the problems with them. Our bodies are made to sweat -- it helps to release toxins and normalize body temperature. The other problem with antiperspirants is that they are loaded with ingredients you don't want your skin absorbing -- like dyes, parabens (which have been linked to breast cancer) and aluminum (linked to Alzheimer's disease). And if you have tiny shaving nicks on your underarms, these ingredients will get absorbed even easier.

"Well, what about the smell?" D. asked, still offended.

Actually, perspiration is odorless. The stink-factor develops when perspiration comes into contact with bacteria on the skin. The key is to limit bacteria from thriving (keeping your armpits clear of hair helps a lot). There are many natural, antibacterial deodorants on the market that are designed to let the body perform its natural perspiration function while at the same time neutralizing odor. Frankly, I haven't found one that I really like, so I started experimenting with homemade recipes. I offered to share these with D., and she warned me that she needed something as fast and simple to use as an antiperspirant stick. 

So -- with that in mind, here are some options using several of my favourite ingredients that have a multitude of health and beauty uses.

First -- this is what I usually do. Since I'm already using coconut oil (which has natural antibacterial properties) as a body moisturizer after showering, I smooth it on my underarms as well. Then I smooth on a drop of tea tree oil (that powerful antibacterial essential oil everyone should have in their medicine cabinet) on each side.

The other thing you can do is to mix one ounce of witch hazel extract to 10 drops of tea tree oil to make a splash or spray for your underarms. If you experience any sensitivity to the tea tree oil, try switching to lavender essential oil.

These simple deodorants won't stop perspiration, but they will limit bacteria and hence, odor. If you are concerned, like D., about "clamminess", you may want to try a body powder with odor-absorbent properties. But please -- no conventional baby powder or any other powder with talc, as talc can contain trace amounts of arsenic and also irritate lungs. The easiest thing to do is mix some baking soda with water to form a paste and gently pat a thin layer under your arms. Even better, mix cornstarch and baking soda, and again, make a paste with water and pat under the arms.

There you go, D. -- simple, easy, effective! For those of you who would prefer to purchase a ready-made deodorant, I'll review some options in the future. In the meantime, if you have any natural deodorant tips, please pass them along!

My Deserted-Island-Pick...

Malaysians call the coconut tree "the tree of a thousand uses"...

The other day, someone asked me, out of the blue, that proverbial question: "If you were stuck on a deserted island and could have only one beauty product with you, what would it be?" Strangely, even though I have no plans to ever get stuck on a deserted island, I had a ready answer: coconut oil.

"Really?" the inquirer responded. "Mine would be mascara."

I'm not sure what good mascara would be on a deserted island. Now coconut oil, on the other hand, would be infinitely useful. First, it's a very stable oil that doesn't go rancid quickly unlike some of my other favourite oils (olive oil is great, but goes "off" very easily). Coconut oil is perfect for island life since it requires no refrigeration and will "keep" for a couple of years (hopefully I'd be rescued long before then, but just in case...).

Second, it has so many uses. It's an excellent skin moisturizer that is easily absorbed, and has antioxidant qualities that help fight free radicals. It offers some low SPF protection, and its antimicrobial, antifungal, antibacterial properties can help ward off skin infections and act as a sort of natural deodorant. It's wonderful for the hair; it can pinch-hit for lip balm and mascara (leaves a lovely glisten on the eyelashes)... and if you do have that tube of mascara with you, it makes the best make-up remover ever. Plus it has a subtle exotically-tropical scent that would fit right in with the island-ambiance. And if things got desperate, you could eat it. No wonder the coconut tree is referred to as "kalpa vriksha" in Sanskrit, which means "the tree that provides all the necessities of life". 

Here's how to use it. Coconut oil is solid at temperatures below about 24 degrees Celsius (76 degrees Fahrenheit). But put a little in your hands and it starts emulsifying immediately. After a shower, while still damp (very important so that the moisture can be sealed in), take a bit of coconut oil, emulsify it in your hands and smooth it over your face and body. Don't be put off by what can at first feel slightly "greasy" -- the coconut oil will sink in quickly. If you still feel too "slick", cut back on the oil -- it's very rich and a little goes a long way.

Coconut oil also provides a fantastic, deep-conditioning treatment for the hair. For centuries Indian women have been using coconut oil to keep their hair lush, thick and silky. And it's not folk-lore: scientific studies have shown that coconut oil is similar to hair's natural lipids and that it's one of the few oils that will actually penetrate the hair shaft. It's especially helpful for dry, damaged or chemically-processed hair. Apply between a teaspoon to a 1/4 cup of coconut oil to dry hair. (The amount depends on the length, thickness and texture of your hair. If you're trying this for the first time or if you have fine hair, I'd recommend starting off with a tiny amount to see how your hair responds). Massage into the hair and scalp (which is really beneficial if you have a dry, itchy scalp/dandruff). Cover your hair with a shower cap or plastic wrap. Then wrap your head with a warm, damp towel, to help the oil penetrate and condition. When the towel cools, re-warm it. Keep the oil on for about an hour (or longer) and then wash your hair. (You probably won't need conditioner after using this treatment).

You can find coconut oil at any good health food store -- but only use  organic, cold-pressed, virgin oil. If you try it, let me know what you think. It's one of my top favourite things -- definitely my deserted-island-pick.